It has long been gone are the days of great geographical discoveries, but in the world there are still places where the traveler can feel like a pioneer, having plunged into the world of primitive tribes and seeing the planet is the same as it was during the early days of mankind. One of these is now the few places on the planet - Ethiopia.

ethiopia

Ethiopia 13 months of sun

I've been wanting to make a trip to this country, but Ethiopia is somehow bad was combined with the countries that I visited during his travels. Yes, and no sea in Ethiopia, one of the most important components of my tours. But the time has come and I said to myself, it's time to go there where long wanted, in spite of certain disadvantages, but there are advantages that are difficult otyschesh all the world. Most of all I was interested in Ethiopia visiting the tribes living in the Omo River valley, namely Mursi and Hamer (Hamar). No less interesting is the ascent to the crater of the volcano Erta Ale.

And in September 2014, I landed at the airport in Ethiopia's capital, Addis Ababa. Do not know the person the country begins to surprise from the first minute. Once in Ethiopia, you will immediately find yourself in another time. Going to the passport control, on the wall, I saw a poster with the inscription «Happy new year 2007." Ethiopia is probably the only country in the world that lives according to the Julian calendar, is considered approved even the Queen of Sheba, about 3 thousand years ago. New Year is celebrated with 11 September 12 in this calendar, unlike ours, 13 months -.. 12 months of 30 days and one month of five or six days in Ethiopia even a tourist slogan- "13 months of sunshine" this slogan came up with the first minister of tourism, started. its activities at the country's last emperor Haile Selassie I. If you make an appointment with Ethiopia for example 3 o'clock in the afternoon, it is likely that after waiting for a long time you have one do not wait. In a country as there is a time different from the conventional world, which is characterized by six hours down. So when you buy tickets for the bus you need to specify what time is local or not. in general, Ethiopians his attitude at the time, 1 hour for them this is not the time. Get ahead of ourselves tell, when we were with a guide to go to the bus station to the bus departure is scheduled for 5.30 am, the tour guide told us that the house will leave at 6 am. To our question as to the 6 bus to go as early as 5.30 should. To which he replied that the gate bus before 6 never opened. A schedule is always worth 5.30, and none of this schedule is going to change. In the end, we went at 8am. The smallest behind schedule with departure I had 55 minutes, when I left the most serious bus company in Ethiopia salem bus. And so, after obtaining a visa at the airport, for which I paid $ 20, I went out again and breathed the air of "black Africa".

How to get from the airport in Addis Ababa city

Driving directions from the airport of Addis Ababa in the city itself can be at least two ways: by taxi and local shuttles, which are located a little further taxi drivers.
By taxi
Hotel Taitu Itegue in which I have to go to be in the region of Piyatstsa (Piazza). Piazza is the most rave district in Addis Ababa, as there are a large number of bars and nightclubs. From the airport to the hotel is about 6 km. And the first price which is called cabbies 400 birr ($ 1 = 20 birr). After not long haggling, I arranged for 250 Birr. Later, I bargained and 200 Birr.

On the shuttle bus
Also in the city from the airport and can be reached by shuttle bus, and the price will be about 50 birr.

Addis Ababa travel beginning the first few days in Ethiopia

The hotel Taitu Itegue I arrived at 6 am, where I was met by my friend and colleague Michael Travel. Hotel Taitu Itegue is a kind of attraction in Addis Ababa, as it is generally the first hotel opened in Ethiopia. Yes, and prices for accommodation in it quite acceptable, although wi-fi, unlike other hotels charge.

Ethiopia

In Addis Ababa, we did not plan to linger for a long time, because the fun is in Ethiopia for its chapels. In addition, on the first day in Addis Ababa met us with rain and hail! So much for Africa! But the capital of the country will be a little later, as a sightseeing tour of Addis Ababa I had planned for the end of the journey. On the day of arrival we had contact with the guide, with whom we had an agreement on a tour of the tribes of the south of Ethiopia - the valley of the Omo River. So we had to buy bus tickets to the city of Arba Minch. Arba Minch - a city in the south of Ethiopia, is here come the tourists, which would go on a tour of the tribes of the Omo River valley. But the guide phone was not available, also was a Sunday, and on Sunday the majority of offices including tourist in Ethiopia closed. For this reason we have decided to postpone the purchase of tickets, and the next day to look at the situation.

Due to the prevailing circumstances we have tonight to get free and next day did not have to go to Arba Minch, so we decided to visit the local nightclubs. One of the most prestigious clubs in Addis Ababa is considered Club Memo (Memo Club), and in it we decided to go. After paying for the entrance we went inside, the normal club, but for a prestigious course sizes too small. Sitting at a table we ordered a drink, after some time, we hooked two attractive ladies. Through not a large amount of time it became clear that it is confused, who called us $ 50 price tag. Heard in reply that we are not interested in selling love, the girls departed, taking with him a cocktail.

Later I learned that this club is the place to pivot moths, and this is one of the highest price tags in the city. Those who are interested in sex tourism in Addis Ababa could visit the area called Chechnya. According to the confirmed information, not the price for sexual services there start at $ 2, but did not check. Heard version of why the area is called Chechnya. Chechnya for Ethiopians something unimaginably distant and terrible). In the area of Chechnya, there are plenty of shops selling raw meat. Many Ethiopians, so it is straight, and is eaten raw and say it is a natural product. So much for the exotic Ethiopian - rent a prostitute for a few dollars and a dessert raw meat or liver, and all this is happening in an area called Chechnya)). The joke of course, in Ethiopia and have enough of the exotic and much more interesting.

After the Memo Club we went to the Piazza, which was located in the area of our hotel and went to the first favorite bar. The bar was full, but we found a free space. During the drinking of alcohol from the next table, we gave as a gift a beer (we were white in this bar alone). We certainly made reciprocal gesture and Ethiopians enthusiastically accepted our gift, we began to press our hands, and one of them even after he shook my hand, kissed it. At that time I was a little taken aback by this behavior. But later I saw some Ethiopians shaking after shaking hands and kissed each other's hands. Such behavior is considered a sign of a great location. After a while we decided that it's time to round out and went to the exit, taking on the bottle of beer purchased by us. But in the street we caught up with the bartender and said that the empty bottles we have to return as paid only for the beer. And this in Ethiopia, everywhere, even in the bazaars selling used cans.

The next day woke up with a decent hangover, but it was necessary to resolve issues related to the tour, especially since we had escaped from a travel schedule for the day. We managed to get through to the guide who said that cell phones have yesterday switched off throughout the city.

With regards to the benefits of civilization in Ethiopia, from the European point of view, everything is very bad. No internet, even in the capital, in the smaller cities, I was happy when spending 10-15 minutes, was able to send a message. And in small settlements, achievement, if it ever is. Roaming with Russian operators do not. Periodic blackouts is normal. And if not in a big city is completely cut down light, it is business as usual, we got themselves several times, even traveled to the hotel using light from cell phones. Well, agreed with the guide, he will meet us at the bus station in Arba Minch and we'll be in touch.

How to get to Arba Minch from Addis Ababa

Now we had to get to Arba Minch. The distance from Addis Ababa to Arba Minch 500 km. It can be reached in several ways Up to Arba Minch from the capital.

1) In Arbama Minch has an airport and from Addis Ababa here can be reached by plane. The cost of the flight at one end about $ 160. If you previously used the Ethiopian Airlines, for example, to the arrival in the country, then you can buy a ticket with 50% discount. From air flight, we decided to give up, since a return ticket would cost the us dollar 320 that did not fit into the budget travel format.

2) Up to Arba Minch can be reached with the help of a travel agency. That is, you buy a tour and your tour begins from Addis Ababa, respectively, the entire transfer is included in the tour. Prices for tours to the Valley of the Omo River in Ethiopia, travel agencies range from about 120 to 300 dollars per person per day. Since we had a local guide with his transport in Arba Minch, then this option we fell away.

3) You can reach the so-called local bus. Major companies such as Salem Bus and Sky Bus, why in Arba Minch not ezdeyut. Ticket price in this area 200-250 birr depending on the class of the bus, the journey takes 8-12 hours. This option, we decided to choose.

Tickets for the bus to Arba Minch from where you can buy these buses and go to the bus station in the Mercato market area (Addis Merkato). Market Mercato in Addis Ababa is the largest outdoor market in the country and indeed in Africa. We went for the tickets, taking a taxi for 100 Birr from district to Piazza Mercato. The rain was falling, rains in Addis Ababa in September, is not uncommon and can go several times a day, as we drove up to the market, civilized, with some reservations center, began to replace the dilapidated shack, near which were torn floor of the criminal type negros, through the half-open car window came not a pleasant smell. We were driving in a traffic jam at a speed of about 10 km / h. I opened the window a little more and decided to take pictures of the surrounding views, but the local beggars saw the camera began angrily shouting and waving his arms. Outside in conjunction with a hangover acted oppressively. We exchanged views Mikha, like real Africa, here we are and it got it. And as luck would have decayed after two hundred meters of our taxis. Pomoknuv 10 minutes in the rain we caught the next. Safely reaching the station, we bought tickets to Arba Minch. Reverse our way again passed slums and volokuschih something to people.

Addis Ababa

The next morning we arrived at the bus station for half an hour before the departure of the bus, and again there was a rain. The station was jam-packed with people, a significant part of which was bomzhovatogo species, some were barefoot. We always felt the glances of others, can be seen white here is not frequent visitors. After some time, we came to the station employees, opening the office space they prigasit we sit there and not to stand in the street. See our tickets are one of the employees said that will tell us when the bus goes and holds him. After a while he came in and said that our bus was canceled, but it will take us a ticket to another instead of only the first class will be the second. Five minutes later he brought the tickets and gave us change.

I note that by and large the Ethiopians good attitude towards tourists, and if they hear that you are from Russia is beginning to admire what Russia is a good country. Some even told me that America is bad and warlike country, and Russia is good and steep President Putin. We came across such that even know that Putin is engaged in judo, and besides Arshavin, know more Alina Kabaeva and Yelena Isinbayeva.

After two hours of waiting, we decided to remind myself a person who buys a ticket, they say how soon will recover our bus. The man looked at us as if he remembered something about a very important and quickly led us as some guy in a leather jacket and a healthy clock and bolt on his fingers, he stood out among the others. The guy led us through a maze of buses passing jostling crowd. Frankly, I doubt very much that we could find our own bus. So if you find yourself in this situation, feel free to contact service personnel.

In the end, we went with a 3 hour delay. second-class bus - it is something like our boxes are not in the best condition, but the first is not much better. One can see that the people who were traveling in the bus is not rich. Many we called not fake surprise and interest, they say that doing two white men in this broken-down bus. The most overt interest was of course the children, they could for a few minutes just to look at us surprised eyes without looking. Maybe someone of them first saw the white man live.

Usually we Miha during long journeys to drink 150 grams of the ridge for disinfection and uplift your mood, pull out your laptop and watch movies. This time we abandoned it, thinking that then the whole bus will hate us as bourgeois snickering. Here people in tattered skirts, pants and shirts go, and the two white men were drinking cognac and notebook movie watching. Laptops in Ethiopia is a luxury item. Good salary in Addis Ababa, about 200 dollars, and in the periphery of 50-80, despite the fact that the price of the laptop due to high fees start at around 1,000 dollars.
In the end, after 11 hours of travel we arrived in Arba Minch.

Arba Minch

Arba Minch - a town in southern Ethiopia, 500 km. of the capital, in a translation from Amharic meaning 40 springs. The city's population is about 80,000 people, about 60% Orthodox Christians, a little less than 40% of Protestants and Muslims around 4. The city has an airport and the university. In the vicinity of the city grow a variety of fruit crops: pineapple, mango, guava, apple, banana, orange. As there are two lakes Chamo and Abaya. On Lake Chamo tourists make boat trips, in order to view crocodiles and hippos. In general, the city the tourists come mainly, which would use it as a transit point, which would then go on to the valley of the Omo River to explore the local tribes.
In Arba Minch at the bus station we have waited for our guide Andualem. Seeing us he immediately glad we found it was not hard, we were the only white.

Ethiopia

For those who are interested to give the coordinates of Andy
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and phone in Ethiopia + 251-0920 647 675.
A great advantage of traveling with him believe that he was apart from visiting tribes in the Omo River valley, we could dip into a real Ethiopian life. No big Dispute skillfully found the compromise that suits everyone. And when we were taken to a museum in which, in principle, the look was not something for which we paid $ 5, and we expressed Andy, to which he replied that it was his fault, that he have not warned on the costs of the museum he incurs.

Immersed in his jeep, we went to his house. Andy told us, it is not necessary to take the hotel and dinner including beer and overnight we will provide it, and while we take a shower, his mother and sister still cook. Each of us have allocated the room.

Arba Minch

We also did not remain in debt and presented pre-prepared gift, Tula gingerbread cookies and a bottle of vodka. He was very happy, but asked that the gift we have presented to his mother. My mother was thrilled. When we sat down we were congratulated with the New Year, since this holiday is celebrated in Ethiopia in September, this is what I wrote above. So I was able to celebrate the New Year twice, and besides, the second time celebrated the year that took place 7 years ago.

Ethiopia

Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee and the coffee is drunk almost all several times a day. On this while we had dinner, we began to prepare coffee. Coffee in Ethiopia drink mostly "natural", that is, take the coffee beans themselves are roasted on coals, after fry should definitely smell its fragrance. On this picture above is not muddy, and this smoke of roasting coffee. What is interesting is that Ethiopians drink coffee biting his popcorn. I'm not a fan of coffee, but in Ethiopia I appreciate it.

Ethiopia

The next morning we had to go to the city Jinka, which is 150 km. southwest of Arba Minch. There we had to live for the next 4 days, leaving in the village to explore the local tribes.

In the morning before heading out on a tour of the tribes of the Omo River valley, we asked Andy to take us back to where you can get online. He took us to one of the hotels with retsepshena overlooking a mountain separating two lakes Abaya and Chamo.

Ethiopia

After we got in the car, Andy and he pressed the gas pedal, he told us that our adventure begins.
Outside, the car floated the endless expanses of the African continent.

Ethiopia

Ethiopia

On the way to Jinka, we passed banana plantations, the people working on them.

Ethiopia

 Ethiopia

And in this picture beehives hanging on the trees

Ethiopia

 During stops saw a flock of monkeys to bend at your appearance

Ethiopia

The road is constantly blocked by herds of cows and goats

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A local girl with shouts of joy accompanied our car

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However, amidst all this African beauty and exoticism, it was evident how poor people live here. At home, made of so many branches of the earth and manure, and the roof is covered with straw or banana leaves. And that's not the worst option.

Ethiopia

To wash clothes and fetch water, people go to the nearest river, it is good if the river is close. Wash well as in the river, undressed squat hiding behind a rock.

Ethiopia

It is worth to stay in any populated area, local children immediately surround the car, requesting food or money.

Ethiopia

 And as soon as you step out of the car to pull your arm with the words «Please give me food. I love you very much. »

Ethiopia

After this, I remembered the words of some of my friends are not on the will, who are wondering, "What do I have done for the Motherland? ....". They live a week in these conditions among these people, and most likely the matter would have lost its relevance.

Jinka

In the afternoon we arrived in Jinka. City Jinka can be called conditionally, rather it is a village, most of whom are single-storey buildings. However, in Jinka are several hotels and nightclubs both an acceptable level. There is also a computer club where you can get online. True to the internet which is in Jinka 10-15 minutes I was able to send three messages to contact classmates and not sunk. Internet via wi-fi in Jinka not, at least so said the guide, and we never met. Even in Jinka, a mosque, where the muezzin woke us in the morning with their singing.
After the computer club Andy suggested that we go to a cafe to his friends. On the way to the cafe, he asked us if we wanted to try the children.

Chad cad or a plant with narcotic effect, like the coca leaves. In the aisles of Ethiopia has a legal turn. In the country there are whole plantations of its cultivation. The biggest plantation of this plant are located in the city of Harar.
We asked Andy what the effect will be on the child. To which he replied that the head will work better, the mood rises and all the color saturation will be around. Well, once it is legal, we decided to try). Cafe consists of a number of pavilions woven from twigs immediately stood the house owners of the cafe. Here Andy introduced us to two of his friends, one of whom was to be our guide for the tribes. The boys got a bundle of khat leaves and explained how to use it correctly.

Ethiopia
During the time we were talking with our children of the use of new acquaintances, we were normal guys. One of them was very educated and even just talking about politics, said the year of the USSR! After some time of our friends we cheered and became especially emotional and sociable, apparently the children had their impact on them. But we have this impact of the offspring did not feel. We decided to use even for serving. Ethiopia

Again, nothing! At some point we noticed that we for two with Miha ate a whole bunch. And even a little scared, and suddenly we are not just taking, then a day will come. Andy friends with surprise looked at us, we ate a whole bunch, and not in one eye. After half an hour we came to the conclusion that we do not take children even if we eat on a package per person. That's why we have decided to resort to the old and tried and tested method and the Andy offered to go to a bar where you can sit to have a drink and listen to music. Andy took us to a bar which was almost opposite our hotel and said that we had not to stay long, because tomorrow we leave early in the morning. After sitting at the bar talking to the local people, after a while, we decided to walk to the hotel. Out on the street, we found that night already. But we have moved away from the bar at 100-200 meters as in the entire city cut down the light. I had to get cell and using them to shine at his feet. Good thing our hotel was not far away and almost in front of the bar, but otherwise I can hardly imagine how we traveled. Approaching the door, we discovered that the gates have been closed, although the time was not so much perhaps about 12 hours. Attempts to reach the protection for 5 minutes or to no avail, had to climb over the fence.

Omo River Valley and its inhabitants

Valley of the Omo River is considered the most difficult accessible place on the African continent. And this here on earth Lost on the border of Ethiopia, Sudan and Kenya hardly penetrate the winds of change. Living here about two dozen tribes are a way of life that has not changed for hundreds and thousands of years. If only the natives purchased some clothes and Kalashnikovs.

 Not Ethiopian emperors, nor the colonial administration of Benito Mussolini, or even proommunistichesky regime of Mengistu Haile Mariam, have not been able to subdue the tribes. And to this day they did not recognize on themselves nor any power, do not pay taxes, can walk around with a gun on his shoulder and do not speak Amharic - the official language of Ethiopia. The tribes of the Omo valley river, speak different local languages, live according to the customs of their ancestors and observe the rituals inherited from their ancestors.

To get to the tribes inhabiting the valley of the Omo River, you need to do is not a small way. The first thing you need to fly to the capital of Ethiopia, Addis Ababa. You have to overcome 500 kilometers from the capital. to Arba Minch by plane or by road. Until 1966 the year to Arba Minch could get there only during dry weather because the road was not paved. Further, as an option Jinka town, this is 150 km. Jinky From a few hours in a jeep (so the spacecraft is not the fact that another car get there) to the interest of the village. And if the goal is to get into the Surma tribe, then you need to add another day's journey by jeep. In the places of residence of the tribe Surma hundred kilometers are no hotels and have to live in tents.

And when this way has done, you find yourself in a very different world. The impression is that you get to another planet or a time machine has transferred you to the thousands of years ago in the world of primitive man. You understand that you are in the ass of the world, but here you can see what you will not see anywhere else, immersed in a world that no longer exists on the planet in general. And then you realize that you have done a path is not in vain.

Map Valley of the Omo River

Map Valley of the Omo River

Few people know that these lands in the late 19th century to the Ethiopian Emperor Menelik joined Attorney II of, a Russian officer and explorer Alexander Bulatovic. Alexander Bulatovic with 30,000 Ethiopian army went up to Lake Turkana and was the first European to visit these places.
There are several versions of where the first man appeared, all these versions have one thing, it was Africa. One hypothesis states that the person appeared in what is now Tanzania and one in Uganda Rwenzori Mountains, and the third well on Lake Turkana.

Valley of the Omo River

Nikolai Gumilyov childhood admired Ethiopian expeditions Bulatovic was the first who repeated his route.

Meanwhile, and we continued our journey. I will not describe what a tribe and what day we visited, but just going to talk about the places we visited in the valley of the Omo River. In the morning we went to explore the tribes and in the evening returned to the hotel in Jinka. Except for one time when we spent the night in the Hamer tribe.
After a while we left Jinky us on the way we began to come across the representatives of the local tribes, and even such.

Ethiopia

Ari Tribe

The first tribe that we were visited by a tribe of Ari. The tribe lives in a village surrounded by a stone wall, in case of attack hostile tribes. Each family has its own house or houses, which are also surrounded by a fence made of branches.

Valley of the Omo River

In these and similar houses live villagers

Valley of the Omo River

And it is the place of execution where settled major issues of the village. In the center is a stone that must be raised above his head, to prove that you are ready to marry. On the right are related to trees, which indicate the age of the village, that is, how old trees and a number of them, this is the age of the village. Some of the trees completely dried up and rotted and have a thickness of no more than a human hand.

Valley of the Omo River

Throughout the tour through the village, we went for the local kids who wish to be photographed for a fee. Some of them dragged behind his younger brothers and sisters.

Ethiopia

Ethiopia

In the village the locals are engaged in cattle breeding, growing a variety of fruits and vegetables, coffee, as well as a local cat stimulant.

Ethiopia

In this photo, a local girl next to the coffee tree.

Ethiopia

Also in the village make the mash, which they call the local beer from a chase moonshine. We even offered to try this local beer, but Micah said, do not try to drink, as well as stroking cats, dogs, and even more to touch the monkeys. At the same time significantly exclaiming, "You do not know where we are, you can pick up anything!".
In his spare time, which is the bulk locals smogon drink or local beer, but in moderation and play local games.

Ethiopia

Ethiopia

My personal opinion, this village may surprise the man who for the first time in Africa, and not familiar with the local life. I also visited four African countries, all surrounding the perceived weak interest, the more I knew that ahead of us tribes Mursi and Hamer, who together with Surma are the most unusual and colorful tribes and indeed the valley of the Omo river in the world. In this village, I was struck by just one old man who was sitting silently under a canopy from the sun.

Ethiopia

Mursi tribe

Sports Valley Omo Mursi or games

Mursi tribe

The next morning we went to the village of Mursi.
Mursi tribe called the most aggressive in the world. The psychology of the men of the tribe since childhood lays the fact that he must live in battles and dangers. As soon get the chance, Mursi man tries to buy the AK, which cost 8-10 cows per model old-fashioned, but the latest models are 30-40 cows. Machines are available from neighboring countries where armed conflicts occur, such as Sudan and Somalia. As the boy grows, he must undergo a rite of initiation, which is to carry the fight on sticks dong. The stick is made of about 2-2.5 meters long and at its end is carved phallus, which indicates that this is an independent man and not a boy. At the same time fights on sticks held dong and to clarify the relationship and the resolution of disputes including for women. Just this kind of athletic competition and grooms Fair, the largest winners will favor women, and the champion will get the best girl neighborhood. At the same time fights on sticks dong is a good training and preparation for war. Since ancient times, there are conflicts between different tribes: for the best pastures, fertile land, water and livestock. To this day, the families do not shun armed raids, ambushes and cattle theft. Warring they kind of force of habit, partly for production and partly for the sake of courage. In the fall, after the harvest of the Omo River Valley is filled with adrenaline, fights start on sticks dong. The signal for the beginning of fights are a few shots from AK. This spectacle is not for the faint hearted - the broken heads, broken arms and legs something common in these matches. For conducting battles follow the elders, allowed all but the opponent's assassination. But it so happens that the situation is out of control. In 2005, seven men were killed during the fighting, and it is only known case. The government did not once tried to ban fighting, but these attempts have failed.

Guides are trying to go around the party and contest the data only at the request of the tourists reluctantly stopped whatever they were able to observe this effect with the permission of the elders. The matter is complicated further by the fact that during the fighting men start to drink alcohol or homemade Braga or anywhere bought. After the libations they become especially aggressive. And at the slightest dispute guides prefer to shove the tourists in the car and go faster. Many guides prefer to carry tourists to the village to Mursi to 12 hours of the day, so the spacecraft after this time many people in the villages are starting to drink at Mursi himself is something, but not drunk at all predictable. Recently Mursi forbidden to sell alcohol, and tourists to carry it to him in the village, as many get drunk and start to shoot a machine gun and their own and other people's.

We are unfortunately unable to visit these competitions. I do not know at that time can never fights were held, and can guide specifically did not want to go there.

African Beauty

Mursi tribe

All household in the village is on women. Men can only protect livestock activity for the rest of them are considered shameful. All spend their free time in games and unpretentious decorating his body with various patterns and scars. And since in this region there is no concept of time, and no one is in a hurry, then men can adorn themselves for hours. But women, too, they are not far behind. One of the most famous jewelry women Mursi is dishes that are inserted into the lower lip, sometimes even as at the top. Young girls pierce his lip with the tip of a knife or arrows. Please do not insert objects of large size, gradually increasing them, well after starting to insert plates as first starting with the smallest. The more beautiful the dish is considered to be a girl, the more it will be worthy of redemption, which can reach up to 50 cows.

Scarification is a separate issue. If women scarification is largely a decoration as our jewelry, the men have scars certain value. First of all men the scars is a symbol of courage and disregard for the pain. And such scars in the form of a horseshoe on his hand, saying the number of enemies killed. The score for men is carried on the right hand and the women on the left. If there is no place in the hands of scars are applied to the hips. This handsome man we met while preparing for fights on sticks dong. He and his tribe was near the pools and daubed themselves with mud.

As you can see, through the dirt visible scars speak of the killed people, both on the left and on the right hand.

Mursi tribe

scarring procedure begins with the fact that the first body sharp stick, a trait desired pattern. More along the lines of the figure lifts the skin prickles, and then make an incision blade preventing skin patches break through. What would convex pattern turned into the wounds rubbed a mixture of ash, insect larvae or dried beans. And when the irritation reaches the desired stage of the wound smeared with a special oil that kills the infection and promotes the formation of scar tissue.

According to the precepts of ancestors

Vital pillars of the tribe Mursi formed over the centuries. And today as a century ago, Mursi practice habits defy understanding of the common man.
Seeing cut lip Mursi women, many question arises, how they kiss. The answer is that Mursi do not kiss! Instead, a woman on a plate inserted into the lip puts mixture prepared from a marsh nut, has a narcotic effect and at the same time with a man licks the mixture language, the woman does it, thrusting tongue in a place where previously there were four lower tooth. This action is called in Mursi "The kiss of death".

Mursi tribe

Equally stunning looks what Mursi do with the corpses. If the person did not die of any illness, then his body is used to the fullest. Soft tissue and meat are eaten, fat is used for the lubrication of jewelry that they shone, and the bones are used for routing paths in swampy areas, and perhaps even for any business needs. A phalanx of women collect beads.

In our everyday speech, sometimes we hear the phrase "blood and milk". In Murcia and some other tribes of Africa, these words have a practical sense. In a bull or a cow boom breaks jugular vein. Blood was collected in a vessel, but blood is taken so that the animal would not die, then wound smeared clay. Next, the blood is mixed with goat's or cow's milk and drink. Mursi believe that this drink gives strength, but usually before fights on sticks dong drink alcohol.

Visiting Mursi

Mursi live in the national park Mago. To get to them you need to depart from Jinky. Visit the Mursi tribe, always with a guide.
A few hours after the departure of Jinky, we saw a group of naked adolescents 12-17 years. At the most senior in the company on the shoulder hung AK. As soon as our car was to pass by them, the youngest in the car ran a half-eaten banana. Andy looked in the rearview mirror and said, "We have called on Mursi territory." I immediately thought, here kids with shouts of joy do not run the machine, and strive to throw something into it, it's good that a machine does not shmalyaet. As soon as we drove through the area, we came across Mursi members of this tribe - topless and completely naked men with guns, with shramirovannymi bodies, women with hefty plates in the ears and lips. We drove past them inhabit small villages and people and now I truly feel that there is a completely different world, and as if all nature around talking about it.

Finally we stopped near a village

Mursi tribe

 And then our car was surrounded by Mursi

Mursi tribe

Our guide for the tribes Seraj, told us first look around the village and then take pictures. In fact, as I realized later, it is not quite correct, as the most interesting moments were just as soon as we entered the village. Immediately at Mursi was surprising my bald head, many have tried to touch and caress her. At some point I felt that my back is something happening, turned around, and behind me there is a bunch of kids and a great surprise studies drawing on a T-shirt in the form of palm trees and sun, thus leading along the contours of the drawing with your fingers. And what would I have done the movement of children as glued followed me. All of it looked pretty funny. But the biggest surprise among the Mursi called Mihin hairy belly. At some point, he accidentally ridden shirt and standing next to the children immediately "stuck" to his stomach. After a few moments he was surrounded by all the women are side by side and each tried to touch Mihin stomach. This man solemnly stood aside.

Then we returned to the car for the money and sweets, which had to pay for the opportunity to take pictures of Murcia. The guide said, very serious voice that all the money and candy prepared to pay for the photos you need to give him and all as soon as we entered the village to Mursi guides of funny guys turned into serious guys. We thought it strange, but we listen to it. Later, we realized that we did the right thing. At some point when Seraj paying for the photo made by us, women and children just attacked him, shouting began to pull out of his hands candy and money, climb into his pockets and pull the clothes. Carefully, he fought back from their hands and small dashes ran out from the crowd surrounded him. If it was not Mursi village, everything would have looked very funny, but at the time it was no laughing matter, especially since a few meters away were the husbands of these women and fathers of children with guns.

Mursi tribe

But all ended well and we continued our photography.

Women mursi

DSC01267

All married women go to such plates in the lips, pull them only in the aisles of a home or for some need. If a married woman has no plate means she married is not a virgin. If a married woman outside the home often goes without plates, which means that it is practically free. Marriages in Mursi are only between tribesmen.

It seems that this beauty free

Mursi tribe

But her jewelery

Mursi tribe

Apply a woman Mursi scars on various parts of the body, and possibly below the belt. Check this is not possible, because women, unlike men completely do not become bare. In the words of the guide, which is below the belt for women - a secret.

Mursi tribe

Mursi tribe

Some girls are beautiful and Mursi have a good body. Just like that, she even stood up in the correct posture as the model in the photo session, even though it did not teach this one.

Mursi tribe

And there are very colorful lady

Mursi tribe

Mursi tribe

Mursi tribe

And of course the children Mursi, while still small, they are curious and funny. As will be later, not always!

Mursi tribe

Many children are taking the example of the adult himself paint colors. There are even some that do this faeces, human, or what we do not understand from the animals. Seeing this, Micah said, "My wife just had not arrived when I picked up the pacifier from the floor and wanted to give a child, and then go out and have nothing, you have to show her a picture let him look."

Mursi tribe

Shopping village at the Mursi have to maneuver between the scones abandoned pets.
Micah catch a funny moment.

Mursi tribe

At the end of the program, we have made a few group photos

Mursi tribe

And coming out of the village at last Misha decided once again to surprise your kids belly.

Mursi tribe

After about five minutes we left the village, we saw four naked men standing around a puddle and smeared themselves with mud. Later it turned out that they were preparing for fights on sticks dong. The guide told not to take photos until he agree with them about it. But I took a chance, this is not much, the camera hanging on my belly level and I pressed the shutter button.

Mursi tribe

 Mursi tribe

 Mursi tribe

 We made some photos and at some point, the conversation between the guide and Morsi moved to higher tones.

Mursi tribe

We made some photos and at some point, the conversation between the guide and Morsi moved to higher tones.

Mursi tribe

And even went so beautiful

Mursi tribe

And even sat us in the car

Mursi tribe

 When the guide returned after a lengthy conversation in the car, we went further.
On the way, several times stopped to take a picture with that comes our way Mursi.

Mursi tribe

At some point I came out, that would take pictures of the surrounding nature.
And then I saw that far from us run boys, they were not less than five hundred meters away from us.

Mursi tribe

Seeing that I was doing a photo in their direction decided to take the money for it. The guide said that you have to pay. We give them at the standard rate. Three of the four have calmed down, and the smallest got his hands on the car and demanded more. We drove carefully, as he stood with his hands in the hood, sliding feet on the road, while others yelled shoving.

 Mursi tribe

We unfastened they still the same amount, that is already on the double tariff. And this kid did not calm down screaming, demanding more money, not allowing the car to drive, despite the fact that we went right at him. Then Seraj could not resist, I got out of this troublemaker grabbed by the neck and pushed aside. The boy jumped back a few steps, angrily glancing at Seraj and something shouted in his direction. I immediately came up with the idea that good this kid is not automatic, but it will grow once ....

Markets OMO Valley

Local markets are one of the most interesting and picturesque places in the valley of the Omo River. The markets can be found just a few representatives of the tribes at the same time. Even if the tribes hostile to each other, the markets conflicts are prohibited. Markets are held in different places and on different days.

Here is a list of the markets work days, indicating places

Market Days Omo Valley:
Monday&Thursday: (Monday and Thursday) Turmi Hamer Market
Monday:(Monday) Arbore Village Market
Tuesday & Saturday: (вторник и суббота) Dimeka Hamer market
Thursday: (вторник) Key Afar Benna market
Thursday:(вторник) Dorze Market
Saturday:(суббота) Dimeka Tribal Market
Saturday: (суббота) Jinka Ari Market
Saturday: (суббота) Chench Dorze Market

We visited one of the markets on which I do not remember, but it has made me not as impressed as expected. Probably due to the fact that the market was not large.

Markets Omo Valley

Valley of the Omo River

Valley of the Omo River

Valley of the Omo River

Here, in general, and the whole market. Of course, if a person is in Africa for the first time and immediately gets on the market, it is not indifferent will.

The only thing we met there, funny girl who lifted us up.

Ethiopia

After the market, we decided to go to try the local alcoholic drink "taj" in the nearest bar.
Taj - this Ethiopian drink homemade. The principle of manufacturing as in our mash, just pushing it on honey and herbs. I like the taj.
Yellow liquid in the bottle is the taj.

Valley of the Omo River

The bar next door men drinking beer

Valley of the Omo River

After the bar we headed to Jinka. But before Andy suggested that we made a great photo session, because he brought with him the local national dress.

 Valley of the Omo River

 Valley of the Omo River

Past the representative of the tribe of Ben AK accidentally passed.

Valley of the Omo River

We asked him for a time machine photo shoot. We wanted to take a shoot for the money, but he refused and said that in this case, here come running local tribes, thinking that he had received some kind of conflict.

Valley of the Omo River

 Valley of the Omo River

And here we decided to improvise a bit)

Valley of the Omo River

 Valley of the Omo River

Our photo shoot was completed, and we just met an African sunset.

Valley of the Omo River

The next day, Andy told us that today is the last day of our trip and his friends want to make us a little surprise. He brought us to his girl friend. Girls working in a hair salon and barber shop right outside, in the same small house they lived. We were put in a small room where there was only a bed and a bedside table. We sat and waited to see what would happen next. Five minutes later we brought the tray.

Ethiopia

I can say that the girls are very tried, since I've seen that is served in the most expensive restaurant in Addis Ababa for 50 dollars. This dish looks much more appetizing. When we had dinner, Andy told us that the girl would very much like to get to know us a little better, but we are here for a very short time, and are not taken immediately to go to the close contact. That they thus decided to express their attitude towards us.

After a hearty lunch we went to the village where he lived, our guide for the Mursi tribe Seraj.

We go to the village

Ethiopia

Life in the village goes on as usual, people go about their business as usual, collect coffee, fruit and vegetables, children and drive the moonshine.

Ethiopia

 Ethiopia

Again, for some reason, my bald head aroused great interest among the local

Ethiopia

We were shown the house in which the chase moonshine

Ethiopia

And they offered a drink

Ethiopia

They poured immediately gram 150. We had gathered to go on, but we were told that we should drink more, ate not drink offended us. I had to drink

Ethiopia

Moonshine proved to be good, we immediately cheered up.

When we went deeper into the village, they found the little girl with her mother. Seeing us girl froze, then burst into tears, trying to escape into the woods. We asked Seraj what happens.

He laughed and said that she first saw the whites.

 Ethiopia

We walked through the village and handed out sweets to kiddies. This lesson was not quite safe). At some point, all the children crowd attacked you pulling candy, so struggled to stay on his feet.

Ethiopia

After visiting the village we stayed the last point of our trip to the Omo River valley, this visit Hamer tribe in which we had to spend the night.

Hamer Tribe (Xamar)

Hamer is one more distinctive and interesting tribe of the valley of the Omo River. Hamer live in the eastern lowlands of the Omo Valley, Turmi area of the city and have a population of about 50 thousand people. In contrast to the Mursi tribe Hamer considered friendly. Hamer 90% Sunni Muslims, although this religion believe they successfully with their traditional customs.

Traditions and Culture Hamer Tribe

One of the most famous and interesting customs in Hamer, is the process of initiation of boys, that is, the boy turns into a man. The essence of the custom is that the young man should run naked in front of the entire village on the backs of the bulls and not stumble. Upon successful passing of the ritual, now a man can choose his favorite girl and she has no right to refuse him.
During the initiation process passes another difficult for our perception of the custom - voluntary beating rod. After him, the bodies of the women of the tribe are characteristic scars.
Preparing for the ceremony begins in the early morning, the girls begin to drink the local pre-cooked home-made beer, which is also called Lokal bir Bordeaux, led dances, blow the horns and jump ringing metal bracelets. By noon, the action resembles a mass hysteria. Brahe and inflated under a blazing sun at 40 degree heat, some girls even lose consciousness. At some point, women begin podnachivat men that they would otstegat them, they allegedly did not want to do, but eventually agrees, and they begin to lash bars that tore the girl. Most try sister and bride of guys who are to be initiated. After this ritual back many girls riddled with bleeding scars and the more scars on the body of the more beloved and stable girl looks in the eyes of the tribesmen.

Sexual customs of the tribe Hamer

Sexual tradition Hamer also of interest. The young man before marrying releases a Woman "walk" on the side, that the girl was pregnant. When it becomes clear that she is pregnant pregnancy is terminated, but the man knows that the woman is able to birth of children, and on it you can get married. Certainly very strange, because you can own all of this experience before marriage.
At the same time I heard a completely opposite version sexual traditions Hamer. Hamer girl can get married at about 12 years, and in this case, on the contrary preserving virginity is a must. Defloration is made in the form of a ritual, a special object shaped like a phallus, and in the morning the husband should show all this bloody thing, confirming the integrity of the girl.

Which of these rituals, the faithful do not presume to argue.

Visiting tribe Hamer

The Hamer tribe village, we arrived in the afternoon and the first ran toward us kids.

Hamer tribe

Hamer tribe

The villagers were very happy we arrived, no matter how they got the money from our tour guide for visiting villages and stay in it. Especially Hamer were glad to see Andy at the meeting, they embraced and kissed, kissed Andy local children and it was evident that it is genuine love. As we settled down and put a shawl for the night, Andy told us about the difficult life of Hamer people. People left to themselves any social benefits the government does not provide them, and even the case of illness people are treated yourself, old-fashioned ways. On this Andy asked. If we have any - any medications and things that do not feel sorry that we gave them local.

While Andy was telling about the life of the tribe Hamer we ate sugar cane purchased on the road, which is the first time I tried it.

Hamer tribe

Then we made a short tour of the village photographed locals and talked to them.

Hamer tribe

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Hamer tribe

Hamer tribe

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

The main occupation of Hamer tribe and wealth is cattle. Livestock living near people's homes.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Living conditions in your understanding of the course is very bad, plus a complete lack of sanitation.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Men Hamer may have several wives. The first and, respectively, the eldest wife's neck dress special kozheno-metallic collar, called benyar.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

The rest of the wives are just metal rings.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

After touring the village Andy gave us dinner, which we used with brandy, bought in duty free. After dinner, we walked out of paltki and circle already pitch dark. Prior to this, Andy told us that would be after dinner we went to the stake. Bonfire was not visible, but it could be heard as the Hamer sing, these songs, we decided to turn on the flashlight. Five minutes later we saw Hamer dancing and singing in the dark. Since we were already on the paddle after drinking brandy Micah joined them.

After not long dance, Hamer took us to a common campfire. On the way to the tip we were met by one of the family near his home and invited guests. After we sat down inside the hut shoved us into the hands of a vessel with a local home brew and did it with a look chtonas will not understand if we refuse.

Hamer tribe

After we emptied the containers, we were taken to the fire bed hides of cows for us which we were seated. Immediately we stuck to the children, a lot of children sat on my outstretched legs, so I could hardly move with them. Of great interest and surprise they called a smartphone.

And when I turned on the video clip with Jeanne Friske, they all were in shock.

In the photo is the moment when I had just turned on the video.

Hamer tribe

After some time, Andy once again brought us the local home brew. After drinking a few sips, I did not drink any more. Micah asked me why I do not drink, I told him that he told me not to touch any cats or dogs or monkeys, let alone drink the local Braga. For a moment he thought and then exclaimed loudly: "What are we here on the sides came to watch, you have to try everything", and then drank the rest of Braga. A little later, Andy brought us half a bottle of the local brew. When we drink, we decided to sing drinking songs, singing "Victory Day", "Hold on a locomotive, do not knock the wheels, and the like." We sang their songs and their Hamer, making it turn. At some point, Micah offered me to sing the Russian national anthem. To my shame, I did not know him, I know the national anthem of the Soviet Union, and Russia did not know. Heard from me, I do not know the words to the Russian anthem, Micah enraged for evermore at me and went to sing songs with Hamer, sitting in the middle of their company. When Hamer fell silent, Michael learned a simple motif of their songs performed Zapevalov Hamer and immediately picked up his.

We went to sleep in the first hour of the night. In the morning I awoke to the familiar songs Hamer, looked out of the tent and saw the surprise Micah local photos on her smartphone. Seeing this picture of man next to the airplane, Hamer simply precipitated! And when Micah showed his photo with his daughter, a girl, a long time she was surprised looking at the child, she stroked it, and eventually kissed smartphone screen.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Hamer surprised by many things, below are some pictures of these moments.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Hamer tribe

Вспомнив какая реакция была у Mursi tribe на волосатый живот Михи решили посмотреть, как на это отреагируют хамер.

Those at least during the stay in the village of Hamer we have ended up and we collected their belongings in the car. Carry out a significant part of our village and we did their latest photos here.

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Ethiopia Hamer tribe

Hamer tribe

Already gone the village Hamer sitting in the car, I thought as well that we still managed to catch the time and those places which did not have time to get the long arm of civilization. And a man like a traveler in a time machine can get into the distant past.
Here are my thoughts were interrupted by the words of Andy, he said that before Arba_mynchem our last stop and we have the opportunity for the last time to see the valley of the Omo River.

Ethiopia Valley of the Omo River

To be continued (volcano Erta Ale, a brief digression on the Addis Ababa)

 
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